Hi,
I just purchased two heavy action short trolling rods, 17lb nobo line and some #3 snaps today...I am going to have to wait on purchasing the spoonplugs..Probably will get those sometime later this month....
I already have one pen 109 reel and in the process of purchasing another one...I still need to get me a lure retriever...Will be having my boat engine converted over to a hand tiller next week...
Jeremy
Thanks
Bye
Purchased
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Bill Patterson
Tools
Congrats, Jeremy! You're getting the right stuff. Jerry's plug knockers are worth waiting for. I'll bet they are heavier than they look (due to lead inside). Should work great. Oh, for the smallest 2 or 3 sizes of spoonplugs, I use #2 snaps so as not to over-ride the smaller lips on the 500 and 400. Be sure to keep the drag set not too high (definitely not locked down to 'exterminate'). Adjust the star drag for this, with the lever up in anti-reverse position. Just pull the line off the reel 6 or 8 inches at a time to test. When I use the 109's in a rod holder to troll for stripers, I have my drag set this way (and in that case I also have the 'clicker' ON. If I speed up the boat and hear the clicker letting out line, I just tighten the star drag a little more. The clicker can also alert you to a hang or a 'fish on'. Keep the clicker feature OFF at all other times or you'll wear it out before long. In normal spoonplugger trolling the clicker is not used. Mr. Perry wrote that he left the anti-reverse off and just used his thumb to keep tension on the line (especially when using the smaller lures). I sometimes do this with the smaller lures, but have the lever up in anti-reverse with any larger lures. If the drag is set too high and the lever is up, it will make hangs worse and will even quickly break the line. Pop, and goodbye lure! When you get to using wire line later, you'll probably want to have one rod with NOBO and the 2nd rod loaded with wire.
I find it takes a little more speed to get the little 500 working than it does with the 400 and larger. To keep from shying away from the 2-3 foot water with the 500, try using it in waters you're familiar with. Once you don't think there are any rocks or stumps to pile the boat into, you'll feel better about it. I occasionaly slam into something that stops my motor. Remember, if you get the smaller lures hung up...they'll be shallow and your rod tip can even be used to wind down and knock the lure loose. No reason to lose them (if drag wasn't set too tightly)! This is a good time of year to be practicing in the shallows, so you're hitting it just right. Good Fishin'!!
Oh, when you get to working deeper and "shooting the works", remember that you don't put this effort into each and every point, for instance. Your water may contain dozens or even hundreds of 'points', but only put your max effort into the good, productive ones. Same with mapping, be sure it's an area worth the effort first. Some may disagree, but I'd do some preliminary checking with the depth meter first. Good structure will 'go all the way'; from the deepest water in the area to the shallows (which is defined as 8 to 10 feet deep, or shallower). A hump, for instance, that only rises up to 15 feet is NOT defined as the shallows and bass won't use it. Some other species would.
I find it takes a little more speed to get the little 500 working than it does with the 400 and larger. To keep from shying away from the 2-3 foot water with the 500, try using it in waters you're familiar with. Once you don't think there are any rocks or stumps to pile the boat into, you'll feel better about it. I occasionaly slam into something that stops my motor. Remember, if you get the smaller lures hung up...they'll be shallow and your rod tip can even be used to wind down and knock the lure loose. No reason to lose them (if drag wasn't set too tightly)! This is a good time of year to be practicing in the shallows, so you're hitting it just right. Good Fishin'!!
Oh, when you get to working deeper and "shooting the works", remember that you don't put this effort into each and every point, for instance. Your water may contain dozens or even hundreds of 'points', but only put your max effort into the good, productive ones. Same with mapping, be sure it's an area worth the effort first. Some may disagree, but I'd do some preliminary checking with the depth meter first. Good structure will 'go all the way'; from the deepest water in the area to the shallows (which is defined as 8 to 10 feet deep, or shallower). A hump, for instance, that only rises up to 15 feet is NOT defined as the shallows and bass won't use it. Some other species would.
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love2fish
Hi,
I also ordered the Tree tape and Back To Basics on the Water from Buck Perry's on the phone today...I talked to Scott on the phone...I think it was him?.....But, anyways they are running low on the tapes they have left...He said it is doubtful they will get anymore tapes...I think they have one called Weeds and Lunker Lore still left...I think I got the last Tree Tape.....
Jeremy
Thanks
Bye
I also ordered the Tree tape and Back To Basics on the Water from Buck Perry's on the phone today...I talked to Scott on the phone...I think it was him?.....But, anyways they are running low on the tapes they have left...He said it is doubtful they will get anymore tapes...I think they have one called Weeds and Lunker Lore still left...I think I got the last Tree Tape.....
Jeremy
Thanks
Bye